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Post by Jerry & Di on May 8, 2017 17:20:58 GMT
The tail pipes will move up and down, pivoting on the wire hangers on the exhaust box. Normally the rubber exhaust hanger ages and stretches over time - this will let the flexi part of the exhaust droop down a bit, causing the tail pipes to go up. The answer is to try a new rubber hanger. The exhaust should not be "sturdy" in this plane of movement - the system was made for the pipes to be central.
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on May 11, 2017 19:03:02 GMT
I'll take another gander up there next time I am horizontal behind the car. Thanks for the info!
I've been busy doing some detailing, scratch and scuff polishing out, things like that. Both front wheels been off and cleaned back to the light grey, look much better. Rear wheels next. My lock nut key looks like it is about to shear one of the little lugs inside, I've ordered a replacement and set of regular bolts as a couple of mine seem to be a duff fit with the 19mm socket. Fixed the always on handbrake light too, a 3/4 turn of the nut on the bolt from brake handle into the bracket for both brake cables sorted it, was a bit to slack and "boingy". Tested hold on steep hill pointing both ways and all good!
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kev
Junior Member
Posts: 17
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Post by kev on May 12, 2017 7:11:43 GMT
Is "boingy" a technical mechanical term ;p
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on May 13, 2017 22:48:02 GMT
Is "boingy" a technical mechanical term ;p It's highly accurate, to be sure Today she sprang a leak in the radiator, confirmed by removing top access panel and having a good look while engine running. That's another almost £100 item on order . So Myrtle (the car, yes she has a name) is off the road for a few days until I can replace the radiator with a better one from M.Satur. I have dismantled the top access panel and I am cleaning and repainting the fittings to make them look shiny again for then new rad is in.
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on May 13, 2017 22:56:40 GMT
Fittings getting some attention. These were getting corroded, so a brush with wire on a high speed drill and some wet n dry later. Waiting on the black coat #1 to dry overnight now.
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on May 14, 2017 22:23:39 GMT
Dear Diary... Removed the old radiator today in preparation for the new one which should arrive early this coming week. Also wire-brush-on-a-high-speed-drill'd some rusty away on the cross members under rad, where some sign of long term leaking was showing, primed and resprayed black/BRG as original. Most of the space under bonnet has had a good clean and scrub, plenty to do while waiting on new part. Had to cut the old spring clips off both top and bottom rad hose as the were impossible to budge, the lugs were on the underside too; will use new jubilee rings to replace. Taken the radiator fan off old radiator which is very knackered looking at bottom corner by out-pipe, must have been going for a while. Shocked how thin the old radiator is, also the copper fins are crumbling off it. Will have to finish draining the old coolant tomorrow after work, need a large mole grips to reach and pinch the spring clips on front of underside pipes. Picking up a bunch of new shiny jubilee clips too.
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on May 19, 2017 21:52:07 GMT
New radiator arrived today. I had drained all the old coolant from system day before, using the screwdriver between hose and underfloor pipe method on both sides. Fitted the old fan onto new radiator after swapping the rather short M5 screws for longer ones for an easier fitting, added a washer and used new nuts. Used new SS Jubilee clips to attach the radiator hoses, also have fitted a new expansion tank which came with a coolant level sensor fitted (can't see a plug to connect into it tho, so may have to add some kind of small buzzer alarm?) Mixed up 10 litres of 50/50 OAT and De-ionized water in a large canister and did the methodical top up and bleed on the three bleeding points until no more bubbles and the run-off was nice fresh pink coolant. Ran the engine for 3-4 mins, turned off and bled again, repeated. Topped up expansion tank to Max level again. After a couple hours started the engine again, ran it for about 15 minutes to let it come up to temp, radiator got warm so know the thermostat is working. Fan didn't come on but I didn't let it get hot enough to start that up. Some water vapor came out of the air vents for about 30 seconds- minute when I ran those, didn't last long and put that down to all the damp weather and condensation blowing off. Will run it again tomorrow and recheck for any signs of leaks and bleed again maybe. Hopefully this concludes what has been my first Solo effort of a mildly mechanical nature. Oh for an inspection pit or lifts.
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kev
Junior Member
Posts: 17
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Post by kev on May 23, 2017 20:49:08 GMT
Nice one Mod. If you need a work space with a pit, not deep was made for working on lorries not F/TF's , you can always use my garage up Carmarthen way.
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on Jun 21, 2017 23:18:55 GMT
I bought the MGF/TF restoration manual recently, and while flicking through it noted a section that detailed the fitting of the High Level Rear Brake Lights to the F. It said there may be a plug already part of the loom hidden behind the boot lid light fixture. So I popped that to take a look and there it was! Lucky me, I had been not looking forward to possibly needing to splice in an extended line to the rear brake lights on the passenger side. So after sitting on my shelf for several months I now I have a working HLRBL. I sprayed the plastic trim it came with primer grey, not sure if I want to go BRG to match body work, silvery, or something else, but I kind of like the grey for now. Stowed the original trim.
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Mod F
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Post by Mod F on Jun 27, 2017 17:56:58 GMT
Nice one Mod. If you need a work space with a pit, not deep was made for working on lorries not F/TF's , you can always use my garage up Carmarthen way. If I get around to changing the underside coolant pipes might just do that, or at the least call by and say hello! Cheers
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