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Post by Tahiti FranKK on Mar 3, 2013 19:15:25 GMT
Hi wondered if anyone has ever experienced a similar problem. Squealing is most noticeable when pulling away from initial cold start and affects the left side rear wheel area. This remains noticeable through all gears , more so in the lower gears with straight line steering. It is not so apparent when: rolling at speed out of gear when the clutch is depressed, when steering left and right or turning, braking. Near miss  About 3 months ago I had a lot of problems with the handling and it felt as if losing the rear left side was going to spin out. I had the car checked and mechanic found a scarily amount of play in the rear left wheel. The central stake nut had worked loose and was on the last thread and the brake disc had become unstable on the hub flange. Mechanic could find no obvious damage and secured the stake nut properly. Brake disc and pads have been checked and are ok. Its not a sound I'd associate with a faliling bearing so Im thinking maybe its the cv joint. Could the cv joint have been stressed as a result of the above issue. The issue does appear to be rotational with gears engaged. Any ideas would be great fully appreciated. Many thanks Andrew |
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Post by Jerry & Di on Mar 3, 2013 22:31:13 GMT
Hi wondered if anyone has ever experienced a similar problem. Squealing is most noticeable when pulling away from initial cold start and affects the left side rear wheel area. This remains noticeable through all gears , more so in the lower gears with straight line steering. It is not so apparent when: rolling at speed out of gear when the clutch is depressed, when steering left and right or turning, braking. Near miss About 3 months ago I had a lot of problems with the handling and it felt as if losing the rear left side was going to spin out. I had the car checked and mechanic found a scarily amount of play in the rear left wheel. The central stake nut had worked loose and was on the last thread and the brake disc had become unstable on the hub flange. Mechanic could find no obvious damage and secured the stake nut properly. Brake disc and pads have been checked and are ok. Its not a sound I'd associate with a faliling bearing so Im thinking maybe its the cv joint. Could the cv joint have been stressed as a result of the above issue. The issue does appear to be rotational with gears engaged. Any ideas would be great fully appreciated. Many thanks Andrew Err, sounds a little strange. A classic squeal at the rear is worn brake pads - they have a thin metal strip which touches the disc when worn low. Or - the rest sounds very odd. In no particular order, the disc can't work loose, it's trapped between the hub flange and the wheel. If the wheel had play, then either the wheel nuts were loose, and/or the bearing was faulty The bearing is a twin roller race unit which should be torqued up to a pre-set figure. Tightening does nothing at all to adjust the bearing. If the hub nut was loose, then all sorts of damage could have taken place - not good, lack of previous maintenance  I can only suggest jacking the wheel up, try wrenching the wheel from left to right, then top and bottom to see if you can find any play, and then track it down. Sounds like a bearing, which may have damaged the hub flange - possibly. Only a good examination will reveal the problem - not something easily diagnosed on the interwebby  |
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Post by Tahiti FranKK on Mar 3, 2013 23:27:28 GMT
Hi Jerry
Thanks for your reply.
Mark (BMS) had a quick look for me but last week but found nothing obvious. I've picked up a new bearing, hub flange and cv joint just in case and Im going back this week for a more detailed inspection and some agreed repair works.
He did say if you need to know anything ask Jerry ;D
Many thanks
Andrew
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Post by Mike H on Mar 4, 2013 8:06:33 GMT
He did say if you need to know anything ask Jerry ;D @jerry - Your fame precedes you  |
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Post by Jerry & Di on Mar 4, 2013 19:34:37 GMT
He did say if you need to know anything ask Jerry ;D @jerry - Your fame precedes you Oh no - I'd better go back into hiding  |
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Post by Tahiti FranKK on Mar 6, 2013 21:10:39 GMT
Mark (BMS) identified this today as a collapsed bearing and a damaged hub flange (see photo). These were replaced along with the top ball joint seeing as hub was off. Squeal is no more. ;D Had alternator belt replaced as a precaution as there was no record in the service history pack given to me by the previous owner. Good job too as belt had numerous cracks and had begun to split along its length. As a final treat to myself (but not so much for Mark who used every tool in the garage to remove the resonator box) my long awaited 52mm throttle body and Pipercross induction kit have been fitted. TPS reset and high idle issue now sorted. ;D Next: Hydragas repump and EPAS sensor adjustment to correct left steering bias. Thanks to Mark for his efforts, Jerry for the advice and Mike/Jerry for the injection of humour. Attachments:
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Post by Jerry & Di on Mar 7, 2013 21:07:38 GMT
Well done ( blimey, I was right for once ;D) Interesting to see how the EPAS adjustment goes - looks easy enough if you have a 5v supply. |
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Post by Tahiti FranKK on Mar 7, 2013 23:48:53 GMT
Going to follow the guide as www.mgf.ultimatemg.com and either use item (as photo) or if this fails, the trail and error method. Be interesting for me too I'm good at taking things apart.............still practising the dark art of putting back things back together upside down, blind, or on my back  Attachments:
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Post by Jerry & Di on Mar 8, 2013 21:33:18 GMT
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Post by Mike H on Mar 8, 2013 21:36:42 GMT
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Post by Tahiti FranKK on Mar 10, 2013 22:43:00 GMT
Hi Jerry thanks for the additional link, pictures are nice and clear for in situ testing.
I wasn't sure whether site rules allowed direct links so referenced the main site only. Mike's reply link was the one I had originally looked at.
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Post by Mike H on Mar 11, 2013 18:04:09 GMT
I wasn't sure whether site rules allowed direct links so referenced the main site only. Mike's reply link was the one I had originally looked at. For your info, as far as site rules are concerned, a good rule of thumb is that any link that is MG related is acceptable, as is any link that is either motoring related or related to any specific MG run, event or natter eg hotel links or location links for meet points etc, provided they are not out and out commercial advertising. Commercial advertising is expressly not permitted, as covered under point 4 of the forum guidelines here. Hope that clarifies |
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Post by Tahiti FranKK on Mar 12, 2013 16:03:55 GMT
Thank you Mike |
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