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Post by jonty1951 on Jul 11, 2012 16:47:39 GMT
After all the work Nick has done, the engine has developed an oil leak around the steel dowel that feeds oil up from the block to the head ( adjacent to the alternator) As he uses only genuine X Parts, he's a bit concernced that he's only seen this once before when a non genuine head gasket was used. He's of course going to fix it free of charge, but being the person he is, he's non to happy and rather mystified as to the reason it's happened. Has anyone else had this particular oil leak ? It's a real pity that it's got to be pulled apart again, as it's driving like a dream !
John
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Post by Jerry & Di on Jul 12, 2012 16:27:49 GMT
Oh dear Never heard of that before. It's basically a tubular dowel, with the oil feed up the middle, so it's pretty difficult for the oil to go anywhere except up the middle into the head. In fact the dowel is a tight fit in the head and block, so even more strange.
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Post by jonty1951 on Jul 28, 2012 7:24:03 GMT
Taking the TF to Nick this morning to hopefully have the oil leak rectified. It drips a fair amount, so I hope it's just a faulty head gasket. I cant think what else can cause it. Getting a bit stressed about it now !
John
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Post by jonty1951 on Aug 7, 2012 17:18:56 GMT
Had some news from Nick. When the head gasket was replaced 6 years ago, it seems they replaced the steel dowels in the block, even though it had them anyway ( they come in the head gasket set). By doing this, it seems the block surface received some very small knocks / scratches in the oil feed dowel area, and when the MLS gasket was fitted, being a harder surface than the old type gasket, it allowed oil to seep past the surface " damage". Nick tells me he has applied a smear of Metal repair paste to the area, which he has used to good effect in the past. He's rebuilt and is going to run it for a couple of days. He tells me the other option would be to remove the engine and have the block skimmed. Failing that, it would require a new block !!! Needless to say, much as I love my TF, I told him to not even consider that ( I'd be off to the nearest dealer for a part ex !!) So it's a case of fingers ( and everything else crossed !) till there's any further news.
John
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bms
Junior Member
Posts: 14
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Post by bms on Aug 7, 2012 20:11:29 GMT
Ive not heard of that before. As Jerry (hello Jerry) has said its hard for the oil to go anywhere apart from up the dowel? Very strange indeed.
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Post by jonty1951 on Aug 11, 2012 20:34:02 GMT
Got the TF back from Austin Garages today ! Nick explained to me in depth what he thought had caused the leak, along with some excellent before and after photos of the marks on the engine block surface. Although this oil leak problem was nothing to do with his workmanship, he stripped it down and rebuilt it free of charge ! How many garages would do that ! He does'nt usually work on a Sunday, but in my case he did to get me back on the road. Top guy !
John
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Post by jonty1951 on Aug 18, 2012 16:37:06 GMT
Just thinking about Jerry's comment re the dowel being a tight fit in the head. It's very tight in the block, but just a close fit in the head. Excess oil to the head leaks off around the dowel, along a cut-out in the head gasket, and down through a passage in the block to the sump. It was in this exact spot that the knocks/ scratches were. Nick showed me the old gasket, and with a magnifying glass, it was possible to see the marks which allowed the oil to seep out.
John
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Post by Jerry & Di on Aug 18, 2012 18:50:00 GMT
Well done to Nick for sorting it out, but it only confirms my thoughts of some repair garages and rough handling/ lack of mechanical nouse/sympathy. (not you bms ) I think a lot of F/TFs have had hard lives, poor or little maintenance, and even that has been dire.
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Post by jonty1951 on Nov 6, 2012 16:47:04 GMT
After having the head gasket and most of the cooling system replaced some months ago, I'm very concerned that my temperature gauge still SOMETIMES creeps up to just over the halfway mark. It goes back to normal after a few seconds.
Also, my engine bay cooling fan has never seemed to work correctly; it's on most of the time in cold weather, even after about a couple of miles.
I'm wondering if the two things could be connected. I'm fairly sure the engine temp gauge only acts up when the engine bay fan is running ( though I could be wrong!).
The coolant level is always constant, the oil is OK and the heater blows hot (although it does go slightly cooler on tickover, which I believe is fairly normal).
I dont want to take it back to Austin Garages as it would mean leaving it with them for quite a while, and I need it to get to work !
Can anyone suggest anything ?
John
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Post by Jerry & Di on Nov 7, 2012 20:13:02 GMT
I still stick with my theory of "funny" water flows on TF160s - but I guess I'll be the only one then which doesn't have this problem
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g4wam
Junior Member
Posts: 45
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Post by g4wam on Nov 12, 2012 12:29:14 GMT
Hi there -just noticed you have had this thread for a year now. My personal view John is that as you use your F daily for work you would have blown it up by now if there was something seriously wrong.
I think the engine bay fan thing is a dicky conenctor on the sensor -you can get to it from the bay -try spraying it with switch cleaner
Mike
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Post by jonty1951 on Feb 19, 2013 18:30:18 GMT
Spoke to Nick at Austin Garages about the temp gauge issue; he seems to think the occasional slight rise is more than likely caused by some silt still being present in the cooling system, and it's slightly blocked the oil cooler. The original overheating problem was originally caused by a totally blocked oil cooler. He says he's seen this happen to TF 160's in the past. As all this seems to make sense, I'm going to live with it and just keep an eye on it. If the cooler DID block up again in the future, could it be by- passed ?
John
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Post by Jerry & Di on Feb 19, 2013 22:27:37 GMT
Yes. But such a waste My plan, which no one seems to acknowledge , works well, keeps the heater flowing properly at all times, and even works if the intercooler blocks up - which it shouldn't. TF 160 owners will have to get over my patent in order to get consistent heater/cooling operation
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