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Post by mgfvvc on Jan 29, 2010 13:47:49 GMT
Warning grease the cluth release shaft on your car now ! See Jerry's tips here ClickyMy f has been off the road for 2 months, The clutch was seized when i tried to move the pedal, this caused the slave cylinder to leak fluid. I have fixed the cylinder with a £7 repair washer (MG part UUB100180). (New slave cylinder are £40-70) I did manage to move the clutch arm, Using a hammer etc, a bit to the vertical position so the gearbox is connnected, but it will not budge at all now. I have tried plus-gas etc and running the engine until hot, and even tried a blow torch on the shaft ! Does anybody have any ideas ? Ade |
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Post by SWMG Admin on Jan 29, 2010 17:09:11 GMT
Yep done mine as well and with all this salt and grit on the road at mo a good time to do it as you say, Dave
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Post by Jerry & Di on Jan 29, 2010 17:15:18 GMT
Warning grease the cluth release shaft on your car now ! See Jerry's tips. My f has been off the road for 2 months, The clutch was seized when i tried to move the pedal, this caused the slave cylinder to leak fluid. I have fixed the cylinder with a £7 repair washer (MG part UUB100180). (New slave cylinder are £40-70) I did manage to move the clutch arm, Using a hammer etc, a bit to the vertical position so the gearbox is connnected, but it will not budge at all now. I have tried plus-gas etc and running the engine until hot, and even tried a blow torch on the shaft ! Does anybody have any ideas ? Ade Good move with the seal kit, I did the clutch master cylinder seals last year at the same time  As to the clutch operating arm - it must move. Even if you had to get the gearbox out to fix it, you would have to remove the arm anyway, so why not persevere in-situ? There seems to be 2 bushes and a dust seal. I guess the bushes are plastic, and the seal not waterproof. I would imagine the steel and the aluminium corrode and the resulting oxide build up makes things tight. Keep soaking with Plusgas/wd40 etc, it must start to move at some point. Heat might not be so good an idea if the bushes are plastic  If it were me, I'd weld up a tube with spigots on so I could get some more force on it higher up out of the engine compartment Very little of anything will get past the seal, except water  If/when it starts moving again, keep it well soaked in oil/WD40 if only to keep more water out. |
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Post by mgfvvc on Jan 29, 2010 18:03:31 GMT
Thanks , Good Idea
I will see if I can design a levering tool and find a welder.
There are the water pipes in the way, however I think
there is more space from below, with the car on axle stands.
If I melted the bushes, it may not work ?
Ade
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Post by Jerry & Di on Jan 29, 2010 18:50:38 GMT
Thanks , Good Idea I will see if I can design a levering tool and find a welder. There are the water pipes in the way, however I think there is more space from below, with the car on axle stands. If I melted the bushes, it may not work ? Ade I don't think you would have got the shaft hot enough to melt the bushes with a propane/butane torch  There isn't much length of shaft to bind tight, it has to move somehow - so keep at it and then soak in any thin fluid to stop it happening again. If only a little WD40 gets in past the seal, it will free up and work. The water pipes can be fiddled out of the way - not a problem. |
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Baracus
Senior Member
Z4 3.0Si Sport
Posts: 279
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Post by Baracus on Feb 2, 2010 6:00:08 GMT
I've had my car off the road since end November, I went to take it out around a month later and the Clutch release arm had seized to the point it wouldn't move at all and also the slave cylinder seal split as i tried the clutch pedal but the pressure split the seal New seal fitted and I used a long extention bar from a socket set and hammered the bar back, sprayed with 3 in 1 oil spray until i could move the long bar without the aid of the hammer. After about 2 x 3 hour stints this week i finally managed to free it up and all is well again. I just figured, if 2 pieces of metal used to move then eventually they will free up at some point if i kept at it. clutch feels great now  Takes alot of patience and time though  |
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Post by Fast Jan on Feb 2, 2010 10:44:29 GMT
Glad you're getting it sorted finally |
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Baracus
Senior Member
Z4 3.0Si Sport
Posts: 279
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Post by Baracus on Feb 2, 2010 16:27:07 GMT
Glad you're getting it sorted finally yeah mines back to it's former self again now to start Lou's, 4 snapped valves with 1 stuck in the head so it's a new head which is sat in the utility room waiting for me I wouldn't mind but her car didn't even fire up and it snapped 4 heads off the valves |
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Post by mgfvvc on Feb 4, 2010 13:34:26 GMT
The f clutch arm is still seized.
I have spent all morning with a 2 ft rectanglar bar.
I fed the bar down though the water paipes and bolted the bar to the hole in the top of the arm and levered it against the shaft. Would it move..no.. not even with a big hammer or pushing my feet from the side of the car.
It is still in gear so should i drive to a garage ?
How much is a new clutch ? fitted ?
Ade
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Post by Jerry & Di on Feb 4, 2010 14:42:37 GMT
The f clutch arm is still seized. I have spent all morning with a 2 ft rectanglar bar. I fed the bar down though the water paipes and bolted the bar to the hole in the top of the arm and levered it against the shaft. Would it move..no.. not even with a big hammer or pushing my feet from the side of the car. It is still in gear so should i drive to a garage ? How much is a new clutch ? fitted ? Ade It's not the clutch, just the clutch release bearing operating arm. Even if you took the gearbox out, you'd still have to wrestle the old shaft loose. By then it would be ok , so keep trying to get it loose. This is a symptom of no tlc in the past unfortunately It's only a steel shaft in an alloy casting, only a few inches of contact. Try proper Plusgas soaking overnight. It has to move, otherwise you'll have to have a new gearbox Try a bigger bar/ levering action. Once it cracks, it'll start getting free. |
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Post by mgfvvc on Feb 4, 2010 22:43:09 GMT
Still trying.
I have now got it to move from the upright position.
It will move towards the slave cylinder bracket and will move back but only to vertical. Both ways by hammering a metal rod.
It will not move push back to the drivers side, ie the gearbox is still engaged.
Could something be jammed, broken inside ?
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Baracus
Senior Member
Z4 3.0Si Sport
Posts: 279
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Post by Baracus on Feb 5, 2010 8:48:55 GMT
i'd say if you've got it to move then your on your way, keep at it, they are very tight and they take alot of time to free up, it took me 2 stints of 3 hours to get mine free, very very boring and alot of patience. and mine was just about moving with the bar to start with.
keep soaking it and moving it, you have nothing to lose really cos if you don't free it up it's gearbox out, it only moves the realease bearing so i doubt anything could be jammed really
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Post by mgfvvc on Feb 14, 2010 13:02:43 GMT
Update
No more movement, the metal bar is getting shorter !
I have had three quotes around £4-500 !
I may scrap this f and buy another...anybody got a blue vvc/trophy for sale ?
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Post by Jerry & Di on Feb 14, 2010 21:54:34 GMT
It can't be impossible. You can't scrap a car because of a little thing like this |
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Post by mgfvvc on Feb 22, 2010 21:53:00 GMT
I found a Trophy in blue, It's wonderful
2001 60k miles and less than £2500 !
How do you check VIN number for which one of the first uk 500 ?
First job was to change the tyres
Second job is to grease the clutch release arm.
Anybody want my old MGF with no clutch ?
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If it were me, I'd weld up a tube with spigots on so I could get some more force on it higher up out of the engine compartment
